Monte Subasio

Monte Subasio in Umbria is popular with hikers and paragliders. The ancient towns of Assisi and Spello are built on its lower slopes. From its summit it offers spectacular views of Assisi below, the wide Spoleto valley to the south and the Appenine mountains to the north. 

From 'our' house in Umbria, we look across to the northern face of Monte Subasio and love its many moods.

The upstairs bedroom window perfectly frames the view across the valley to Subasio. 

Half way up the mountain and tucked in the forest is the sanctuary of Eremo della Carceri. In the 13th century, Saint Francis of Assisi and his followers would often come to this place to pray. The stone hermitage and extensive woodland paths draw pilgrims from all around the world. 

It is one of our favourite places to visit, especially early in the morning before busloads of tourists arrive. It is truly a sacred space.

In spring and summer, horses and donkeys graze on Monte Subasio's slopes (the friendly ones like a pat), and orchids, crocuses and other wildflowers bloom among the grass and moss.

Locals like to escape the summer heat on Monte Subasio. One day we headed to our favourite picnic spot with friends only to find that it was already occupied. Back in the car, we looked for another place to have our picnic.

We turned a corner to find, to our surprise, the bare grassy slope was strewn with bodies of all shapes and sizes, stripped down to their bathers, lying down or sitting on deck chairs working on their tan. Quite a shock for us Australians who think of sunbathing by the sea, not at the top of a mountain!

Autumn is when you see cars parked alongside the road and people stomping across the slopes, clutching wicker baskets, scanning the fields for mushrooms.

The long and winding drive from Spello to Assisi over the 1300m high mountain is something we enjoy each time we visit. During one excursion over the mountain in October, we encountered snow. Driving was a bit hazardous as we were not expecting the slippery conditions on dirt roads that resemble creek beds in parts.

We have yet to visit Umbria in winter when the mountain is covered with snow and the roads are impassable. We hope one day to see it in its wintry finery.