Orvieto: a city on a rock - Part 1

Orvieto is a charming hilltop town in the Umbria region of Italy, known for its dramatic setting atop a volcanic cliff, stunning Duomo (cathedral), and extensive underground cave network. It abounds with Etruscan, medieval, and Renaissance history. 

Located midway between Florence and Rome, in medieval times, this citadel, perched on its impregnable rock, controlled the road between Florence and Rome. 

Our first visit to Orvieto was memorable. Once parked near the railways station, we climbed a lot of steps (the escalator was not working), past the railway station to where a funicular would take us up the steep cliff to the city.

Standing at the front of this driverless tram, we held our breath as we watched another funicular coming straight towards us when suddenly it moved sideways and we passed the downward carriage.

When we emerged from the 'funiculare', we opted to catch a bus to the main square, Piazza Cahen, rather than walk up the steep road to the centre of town.

For first timers to Orvieto, a guided tour of the underground caves is a must! Hidden below the streets and houses lies an intriguing underground city that winds its way beneath the main monuments. The caves contain 2,500 years of city history.

This underground world had numerous practical uses over the ages.  In Etruscan times, water was transported through aqueducts and water cisterns which are still functioning. In the medieval era, the underground tunnels, nooks and crannies were used for pigeon-breeding (for food), olive-pressing and even as stabling for horses.

The tour begins with the remains of a medieval oil mill, with further oil presses and grindstones dating back to the 17th-century, proof of how long the olive oil industry was ensconced underground.

Returning to the main piazza, we stood for some time and gazed at the façade of the impressive striped Duomo di Orvieto which towers over the square. 

Entry was free when we first visited, but the small entry fee is worth paying to see the beautiful frescoes, statues and stained glass windows.

The construction of Orvieto Cathedral began in 1290 but it wasn’t completed until almost three centuries later.

The countless carvings and colourful mosaics which cover the front of the cathedral are stunning. Pope Leo XIII once described the church as "the Golden Lily of Italian cathedrals." A well-deserved compliment to the approximately twenty artists who worked on this beautiful cathedral.

The inside of the duomo is no less impressive. The black and white striped walls are brightened by the rose window and the large Gothic stained glass window behind the altar. 

In one of the two chapels beside the altar, the Cappella Nova or Chapel of San Brizio features one of the greatest pictorial cycles of the Renaissance started by Beato Angelico and finished by Luca Signorelli. The Last Judgement is a masterpiece by the painter from Cortona, alternating apocalyptic and redemptive scenes. The theme and the depictions created by Signorelli inspired Michelangelo to create the frescoes in the famous Sistine Chapel.

It’s high position on the tufa rock means the views of the surrounding countryside are stunning. Its fertile volcanic slopes are covered in the vineyards that produce Orvieto’s famously crisp white wines. Its worth picking up a bottle or two to try. 

We recommend climbing the clock tower to get the best view.

Cafes, restaurants and shops are scattered through the town, including handmade leather goods, woodwork, jewellery - and ceramics. In fact, Orvieto’s economy is still dependent on tourist demand for pottery. 

If you see something you like in a store, don’t plan to return after lunch to make your purchase. Most shops close at 1pm and can open anywhere from 3-4pm.

Orvieto is not just 'another hill top town'.  Orvieto has been described as 'Umbrian perfection ... a brooding Etruscan presence hewn out of dark volcanic rock'.

Each time we visit Umbria, our itinerary always includes a visit to this beautiful and unique town.