Spello: the most colourful town in Umbria
The small village of Spello in Umbria near Assisi, rises from the slopes of Monte Subasio. This means that a visit to Spello involves two things: steep streets ...
... and stunning views.
Spello boasts a rich, 3,000 year history, evolving from an ancient Umbrian settlement into a major Roman colony under Emperor Augustus around 41 BC. Some of its walls and gates date back to the first century.
The historic centre of Spello is largely surrounded by medieval walls built on Roman foundations. Old ruins and relics of the past can be found dotted all over the town.
The main road winds up from the valley to a main street lined with churches, wine merchants, local products and gift shops.
Olives groves are scattered over the hills surrounding Spello so it’s not surprising that local olive oil is plentiful. After sampling some on crusty toasted bread in an atmospheric cellar, we found ourselves paying 70 euro (about $120) for a bottle. It was delicious, but …! (I remember bringing the remnant of oil back to Australia in a water bottle.)
On our first visit to Spello in 2006 we wandered into a large courtyard behind Bar Giardino Bonci, not far from the main piazza. The sweeping view of the surrounding hills and olive groves was wonderful. The food is not marvellous but sitting under the shady trees, sipping a coffee or a glass of vino and gazing at that panorama drew us back each time we visited Spello.
Spello is known as ‘the most colourful town in Umbria’ because of its love of flowers.
While strolling around the town, peer down the little laneways and you’re likely to see flowers spilling out of pots along the pavement and from the walls.
A spectacular annual event is the 'Infiorate.' It is held on the ninth Sunday after Easter to celebrate Corpus Christi. During this famous flower festival, the streets of Spello are not only decorated by the already colourful flower pots but also by artistic carpets made of flower petals.
The night before the Infiorate (Notte dei fiori), almost a thousand people work incessantly to create carpets and pictures made of flowers along the town's narrow streets. Such precision work! (Images sourced from Internet.)
Unfortunately, we have never timed our Italian sojourns to see these flower carpets.
Some of Spello’s churches are custodians of a rich artistic and historical heritage. The most notable is the 12th century Church of Santa Maria Maggiore with a chapel painted by Pinturicchio in 1500. His magnificent frescoes depict scenes from the life of Mary. Pop a few euros in a slot to turn on lights to view the paintings. (Image sources from the internet.)
The Museu Norberto is a lovely little art gallery dedicated to the works of Norberto Proietti. He was a well-known 20th-century Italian artist and sculptor who was born in Spello but passed away in 2009. His paintings of medieval Umbrian landscapes with busy little friars are delightful. It’s free to enter. (Image sourced from Internet.)
The central piazza with its trees, fountain and flowers was a restful place to stop for a gelati. Sadly it is now a car park.
Charming Spello is one of our favourite Umbrian towns and we always return each time we're in Umbria.
