Wine - the heart and soul of Italy
Italy's vast coastline, mountainous and hilly terrain provides a variety of altitudes, climates and soil conditions for grape growing, so you will find great wines wherever you go.
However, if you’re like us and want a palatable 'quaffer', pop into your local Italian grocery store or service station and you’re likely to pick up a rough white or red wine for only a few euro.
There are still places where we can fill a plastic bottle with vino sfuso (literally loose or bulk wine) from a barrel or vat. It was drinkable with an antipasto lunch on the terrace.
When we stay at our house near Assisi, our favourite quaffer is white Trebbiano and red Sangiovese from a local bar that sells under the owner’s label (Da Giovannino). Prices have increased since we first bought it in 2006 for €2.50 (about $4) for a litre. This year it was about $6, but we still got a refund of twenty-five euro cents when we returned the empty bottle.
Did you know that Sangiovese is the backbone of many iconic Italian wines? This grape variety thrives in Tuscany and is essential in producing Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. is by far the most popular and widespread red wine varietal in Italy. Sangiovese is also frequently used in blends. Primitivo is a close second, largely grown in Southern Italy.
Some regions are better for white wines than others. For ‘international’ wines like pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay, you can’t beat Northern Italian white wines. Central Italy produces some delicious fuller bodied styles and some that are relatively unknown outside of the country like Orvieto Classico and Assisi Grechetto, whilst the South produces fruity, mineral white wines often grown on volcanic soils.
Prosecco is a sparkling white wine produced in a large area spanning nine provinces in the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions, and named after the village of Prosecco, in the province of Trieste, Italy. It has grown in popularity in Australia
Grappa is made by distilling the skins, pulp, seeds and stems (i.e., the pomace) left over from winemaking after pressing the grapes. It was originally made to prevent waste by using these leftovers. In Italy, grappa is primarily served as a digestive or after-dinner drink. Its main purpose is to aid in the digestion of heavy meals. Grappa added to espresso coffee is called a caffè corretto (‘corrected coffee’).
It's common to see small vineyards in the yards of country houses. Whilst staying in a town above the Cinque Terra, we awoke early one morning to the sound of machinery. Intrigued, we leaned out of our second-floor window to see two chaps tipping crates of grapes (black and green) into a crusher, with the juice disappearing down a large hose to a vat somewhere below us.
Making your own grappa is illegal but a law like that wouldn't bother an Italian. Later that same day we passed an elderly couple busy in their stone basement. The chap smiled at us, tapped the side of his nose and said, “Grappa”.
People with small vineyards can take their grapes to a cantina sociale, or wine cooperative, where their grapes will be combined with those of other locals. Producing more than 60% of Italy’s wines, co-ops represent a vital part of the national wine industry and, happily for the wine lover, can offer myriad wines of fantastic value and quality. If you’re staying in a rural area, it’s worth checking if there is one nearby to try their wine.
The vino della casa (house wine) served by many restaurants is typically an inexpensive wine, sold by the glass, half litre, or bottle. If you're not fussy, it can be very drinkable.
Wine is not just available in 750ml bottles. Whilst in Montepulciano Jan bought a three-litre bottle of red wine (a common sight in bottle shops in some Umbrian towns that are famous for their wine).
It took a very strong and determined friend to remove the cork and to pour it!
Just another reason to love Italy!!!!